Saturday, October 07, 2006
Dandong, North Korea and the Great Wall Pictures
Is that North Korea on the right?
Steps and more steps on the Wall
The boat back
Stairs on the Great Wall
Lights and glitz of Dandong
Middle of the Yalu RiverPeople on the beach in North Korea
Road Trip... Day Five... Dandong, North Korea and the Great Wall
On day four when we left FengCheng, we headed into Dandong. We stayed in a very nice hotel on the Yalu River which serves as the border between China and North Korea. Becky, Leslie and I had a leisurely evening walk along the Yalu River. In the dark of the evening, Dandong is all lights and glitz; in dark and stark contrast there is North Korea on the other side. There are few, if any lights to be seen. It is almost as if the land across from Dandong is a no man's land.
Even in the day light there are few structures to be seen and very few people. We had driven into Dandong on the third day before driving out to the spa town. We ate lunch at a restaurant near the river and had walked up on the bridge that goes half way out into the Yalu River and then stops. In 1950, the American had strafed the brige and then the Koreans proceeded to dismantle it to the center of the river. There is a new "Friendship Bridge" that spans the river and there were people walking across it. It is possible for some people to get visas to visit North Korea, but I do not know what that takes. While China is starting to make overtures toward North Korea to open lines of communication, the history between the two nations is strained and the Chinese people are not overly enthusiastic about either North or South Koreans.
The evening of the fourth day after our evening walk, we met Mr. B for a tasty Korean barbeque dinner. Korean BBQ entails grilling a variety of meats and wrapping them in various greens along with cloves of garlic and a popourri of sauces and seasonings. We also ate grilled prawns and skewers of tastily seasoned meat...mutton, maybe? Tasty, tasty, tasty when all is washed down with Yalu River beer.
Wednesday morning (the 5th day) dawned brightly and we trotted down stairs to the buffet breakfast. The buffet was very Chinese style breakfast food ( meats, vegetables, congee, etc) and we ate under the careful scrutiny of fellow guests. We then walked to a coffee shop whose logo and colors are remarkably Starbuckesque and I enjoyed a latte... quite good! Becky and Leslie had tea drinks.
Thus fortified, Mr. B picked us up and we were off for a walk on the a piece of the Great Wall that goes along the Yalu River and looks down on vacant North Korean land. Did not even see crops growing across the river. It is very close, so perhaps noone is allowed in the area.
The Hushan (Tiger Mountain) Changcheng section of the Wall is restored and was originally built during the Ming Dynasty. It is a pretty steep climb up to the the main towers and then an equally steep climb down the other side to a very interesting albeit small museum. Conditioned from our previous three days of hiking, the Wall hike only took us about an hour. It was very warm so we were relieved that it was not longer or harder than it was.
While we could have walked back over the wall or down along side the wall along the river to get back to the main gate and restored tower, we chose to take a boat back. I mean really, we had to as we had told so many stories about being a stones throw from North Korea and cracked so many jokes about the possibilities of yet another visa snafu.... but we made it back in a small wooden boat with a small motor and with a capable driver at the helm, with no incident whatsoever. Quite anticlimactic really, but all good adventures really ought to end happily.... what NO ICE CREAM!?!? Well then at least end.
Mr. B made a b-line for the expressway and in just 3 and 1/2 short hours we were pulling up to the Kerren Hotel. The afternoon of day five and the road trip was over. What a way to celebrate the Autumn Moon Festival and the Chinese National Holiday.
Even in the day light there are few structures to be seen and very few people. We had driven into Dandong on the third day before driving out to the spa town. We ate lunch at a restaurant near the river and had walked up on the bridge that goes half way out into the Yalu River and then stops. In 1950, the American had strafed the brige and then the Koreans proceeded to dismantle it to the center of the river. There is a new "Friendship Bridge" that spans the river and there were people walking across it. It is possible for some people to get visas to visit North Korea, but I do not know what that takes. While China is starting to make overtures toward North Korea to open lines of communication, the history between the two nations is strained and the Chinese people are not overly enthusiastic about either North or South Koreans.
The evening of the fourth day after our evening walk, we met Mr. B for a tasty Korean barbeque dinner. Korean BBQ entails grilling a variety of meats and wrapping them in various greens along with cloves of garlic and a popourri of sauces and seasonings. We also ate grilled prawns and skewers of tastily seasoned meat...mutton, maybe? Tasty, tasty, tasty when all is washed down with Yalu River beer.
Wednesday morning (the 5th day) dawned brightly and we trotted down stairs to the buffet breakfast. The buffet was very Chinese style breakfast food ( meats, vegetables, congee, etc) and we ate under the careful scrutiny of fellow guests. We then walked to a coffee shop whose logo and colors are remarkably Starbuckesque and I enjoyed a latte... quite good! Becky and Leslie had tea drinks.
Thus fortified, Mr. B picked us up and we were off for a walk on the a piece of the Great Wall that goes along the Yalu River and looks down on vacant North Korean land. Did not even see crops growing across the river. It is very close, so perhaps noone is allowed in the area.
The Hushan (Tiger Mountain) Changcheng section of the Wall is restored and was originally built during the Ming Dynasty. It is a pretty steep climb up to the the main towers and then an equally steep climb down the other side to a very interesting albeit small museum. Conditioned from our previous three days of hiking, the Wall hike only took us about an hour. It was very warm so we were relieved that it was not longer or harder than it was.
While we could have walked back over the wall or down along side the wall along the river to get back to the main gate and restored tower, we chose to take a boat back. I mean really, we had to as we had told so many stories about being a stones throw from North Korea and cracked so many jokes about the possibilities of yet another visa snafu.... but we made it back in a small wooden boat with a small motor and with a capable driver at the helm, with no incident whatsoever. Quite anticlimactic really, but all good adventures really ought to end happily.... what NO ICE CREAM!?!? Well then at least end.
Mr. B made a b-line for the expressway and in just 3 and 1/2 short hours we were pulling up to the Kerren Hotel. The afternoon of day five and the road trip was over. What a way to celebrate the Autumn Moon Festival and the Chinese National Holiday.
Views from Fenghuang Shan
Road Trip ....Day Four.... Fenghuang Shan
We were less than an hour drive from our day four adventure when we set off from the spa town (never did find out the name of the town.) We went to Fengcheng which is Xingli's hometown. Xingli is our director, Brian Berneking's assistant. She is sweet and wonderful and helped us arrange the road trip. She was thrilled when she heard that we were headed to Fenghuang Shan. She said that she had hiked at Phoenix Mountain probably 20 times in her childhood and as a young adult.
We spent the entire day on the mountain. It is a huge area and the temples, monestaries, pagodas, sights, hikes and climbs are too many to do in any one day. We did however manage quite by accident to have a truly spectacular adventure.
We saw that there was a cable gondola ride up the mountain. We thought that we would just ride one way up and find a hike down as the map showed numerous ways to climb up or down. Well the map also showed "walks" across the tops of ridges seemingly too numerous to even contemplate in one day. So up in the cable gondolas we went oohing and ahhing and nihaoing all the way up for our one-way ride. The autumnal colors were breathtaking as were the vistas out over the mountain ridges and valleys. We hopped out and climbed up out of the gondola station to ooh and ahh at the spectacular view down either side of the rock precipice that we had landed on and to ooh and ahhh at the multiple ridges that we could see off in the distance.
We joined the throngs of climbers that were making their way across the first ridge to the south of where we had landed. We were caught up in the crowd and the thrill of the view and the autumn beauty below and above us. Four hours later, we had made our way across ridges too numerous (and treacherous) to count, had made numerous rest the jello legs and allow the heart to return to the chest stops and wondered if a way down really even existed. We finally crossed "Heaven's Bridge" and the way down presented itself. We had gone from climbing rocks and crawling across ridges with the throngs to climbing with just a few people.... evidently we had missed many down opportunities. Oh well, it was a major hiking, climbing and stamina endeavor and then there we were back at the base of the mountain near the cable gondola station. Adventure by stupidity or serendipity? Given the endorphins that carried me the kilometer or so back to the parking lot to find Mr. B., I vote for adventure by serendipity. I still thrill when I think of making the climb... conquering fears will do that for you.
We spent the entire day on the mountain. It is a huge area and the temples, monestaries, pagodas, sights, hikes and climbs are too many to do in any one day. We did however manage quite by accident to have a truly spectacular adventure.
We saw that there was a cable gondola ride up the mountain. We thought that we would just ride one way up and find a hike down as the map showed numerous ways to climb up or down. Well the map also showed "walks" across the tops of ridges seemingly too numerous to even contemplate in one day. So up in the cable gondolas we went oohing and ahhing and nihaoing all the way up for our one-way ride. The autumnal colors were breathtaking as were the vistas out over the mountain ridges and valleys. We hopped out and climbed up out of the gondola station to ooh and ahh at the spectacular view down either side of the rock precipice that we had landed on and to ooh and ahhh at the multiple ridges that we could see off in the distance.
We joined the throngs of climbers that were making their way across the first ridge to the south of where we had landed. We were caught up in the crowd and the thrill of the view and the autumn beauty below and above us. Four hours later, we had made our way across ridges too numerous (and treacherous) to count, had made numerous rest the jello legs and allow the heart to return to the chest stops and wondered if a way down really even existed. We finally crossed "Heaven's Bridge" and the way down presented itself. We had gone from climbing rocks and crawling across ridges with the throngs to climbing with just a few people.... evidently we had missed many down opportunities. Oh well, it was a major hiking, climbing and stamina endeavor and then there we were back at the base of the mountain near the cable gondola station. Adventure by stupidity or serendipity? Given the endorphins that carried me the kilometer or so back to the parking lot to find Mr. B., I vote for adventure by serendipity. I still thrill when I think of making the climb... conquering fears will do that for you.
Pictures of the Dagu Shan Temples
Road Trip... Day Three...The Temples at Dagu Shan
On day three of the five day road trip, we made our way to Gushan which was less than an hour from Qingdui. There are several 1300 year old Taoist temples at Dagu Shan (Lonely Mountain) near Gushan. There are temples at the bottom of the mountain that are an intricate maze of buildings. There are still chanting services that are held at various parts of these temples and we stood for a while listening to a service that was being held. At another shrine a family was having a private chant done for a relative. The buildings are remarkable for their intricate roof ornaments, doorways and gargoyle type ornaments as well as the statuary that mark the various shrines. There were numerous places for me to light incense and I did with love, grief and strength all intertwined.
A short hike up the mountain takes you to another 1300 year group of buildings that are sheltered by a 1200 year old tree. The buildings and statuary are remarkable and I could only sit and contemplate the ages of people making their way to these places to make offerings, seek comfort, honor the ancestors and pray for the good of the universe.
The day ended in an small town that hosts an abundance of hotels. The town has a hot springs and hence the hotels each hotel offers spa treatments. After 3 days of hiking, Leslie, Becky and I celebrated with long soaking showers and luxurious body scrubs that soothed the aching calf and shoulder muscles. Back in our hotel room ,we continued the decadance with Great Wall red wine and a taste test of the various chocolates that a hole in the wall grocery had to offer.... thank goodness for Dove bars.... the other chocolates were waxy and tastless. Decadance is sometimes not all it is cracked up to be.
A short hike up the mountain takes you to another 1300 year group of buildings that are sheltered by a 1200 year old tree. The buildings and statuary are remarkable and I could only sit and contemplate the ages of people making their way to these places to make offerings, seek comfort, honor the ancestors and pray for the good of the universe.
The day ended in an small town that hosts an abundance of hotels. The town has a hot springs and hence the hotels each hotel offers spa treatments. After 3 days of hiking, Leslie, Becky and I celebrated with long soaking showers and luxurious body scrubs that soothed the aching calf and shoulder muscles. Back in our hotel room ,we continued the decadance with Great Wall red wine and a taste test of the various chocolates that a hole in the wall grocery had to offer.... thank goodness for Dove bars.... the other chocolates were waxy and tastless. Decadance is sometimes not all it is cracked up to be.
Bingyugou and Qingdui Pictures
Road Trip..Day Two... Bingyugou
Day 2 of the National Holiday road trip took us about 50 kilometeres from Zhuanghe to Bingygou which translates to Ice Valley Channel and is know as the Guilin of the North. There were parts of the Bingyugou Resort that had an amusement park atmosphere and there were other parts that, on the map, appeared to be more remote places to hike.
We took as many of the scenic boat tours as we could to see the water channels and the beautiful rock formations, but one large area that we had hoped to see was under reconstruction so the boat did not stop for passengers to disembark.
After many false starts into amusement park areas, we finally found our way into the outer reaches of the resort where we could hike along paths that meandered up and down along a very small river. After following the meandering path for a long time, we found our way to the beginning of a steep, steep staircase that went on and on up a mountainside....seemingly never to end. Finally it did and we were rewarded with a remarkable Buddhist temple that was built in a cave. The temple was a very spiritual and calm place to be. The hike down the other side of the mountain was more steps, but thankfully down is not as intense as up. We ended up in a parking lot far from where we needed to be and broke down and took resort transportation back to the centeral amusment park area that we had hiked away from many hours before. Oh the difference the hours can make! The resort was now packed with Chinese vacationers. We hot -footed it to the quay to catch a boat out to the main gate and thankfully fell into Mr. B's car.
We were hike happy and exhausted. Mr. B. hustled us up the road about an hour to Qingdui which is just an odd roadside town. Stayed in a very comfortable hotel and had a great dinner in our own private dining room. Mr. B joined us for dinner. We had an interesting eggplant dish that included an unknown seafood. After a communication session that resembled charades the seafood was revealed to be conch meat. It was very chewy, but tasty. We also had steamed clams and another dish was cold marinated clams. A fourth dish was a hearty noodle soup with large and tasty prawns. Please remember that food plays a big part in adventuring.
In the morning, Leslie was kind enough to entertain us all as she helped two locals who were struggling to put up an inflatable arch outside the hotel doorway. The inflatable arch was to mark a wedding that was taking place in the hotel later in the morning. Really and truly, the arch probably would not have been set up without her help. She drew quite a crowd. We did not stick around to see if the wedding party would have a larger crowd. Brides should not be upstaged on their wedding day.
We took as many of the scenic boat tours as we could to see the water channels and the beautiful rock formations, but one large area that we had hoped to see was under reconstruction so the boat did not stop for passengers to disembark.
After many false starts into amusement park areas, we finally found our way into the outer reaches of the resort where we could hike along paths that meandered up and down along a very small river. After following the meandering path for a long time, we found our way to the beginning of a steep, steep staircase that went on and on up a mountainside....seemingly never to end. Finally it did and we were rewarded with a remarkable Buddhist temple that was built in a cave. The temple was a very spiritual and calm place to be. The hike down the other side of the mountain was more steps, but thankfully down is not as intense as up. We ended up in a parking lot far from where we needed to be and broke down and took resort transportation back to the centeral amusment park area that we had hiked away from many hours before. Oh the difference the hours can make! The resort was now packed with Chinese vacationers. We hot -footed it to the quay to catch a boat out to the main gate and thankfully fell into Mr. B's car.
We were hike happy and exhausted. Mr. B. hustled us up the road about an hour to Qingdui which is just an odd roadside town. Stayed in a very comfortable hotel and had a great dinner in our own private dining room. Mr. B joined us for dinner. We had an interesting eggplant dish that included an unknown seafood. After a communication session that resembled charades the seafood was revealed to be conch meat. It was very chewy, but tasty. We also had steamed clams and another dish was cold marinated clams. A fourth dish was a hearty noodle soup with large and tasty prawns. Please remember that food plays a big part in adventuring.
In the morning, Leslie was kind enough to entertain us all as she helped two locals who were struggling to put up an inflatable arch outside the hotel doorway. The inflatable arch was to mark a wedding that was taking place in the hotel later in the morning. Really and truly, the arch probably would not have been set up without her help. She drew quite a crowd. We did not stick around to see if the wedding party would have a larger crowd. Brides should not be upstaged on their wedding day.
Zhuanghue Beach and Streets in Pictures
Road Trip... Day One ...Part 2 in Zhuanghe
We arrived in Zhuanghe mid-afternoon and Mr. B found for us a very comfortable and inexpensive guesthouse. We checked in, settled in and then asked Mr. B. to help us find the beach which was a ways out of town. There we spent a couple of hours picnicking and exploring the waterfront.
Our picnic took place in a waterfront park where we were immediately surrounded by locals and carefully observed. There was some attempt to communicate with us, but mostly we were just observed as a rare oddity. It made picnicking on apples, peanut butter and crackers very awkward and abbeviated.
The beach walk took us along beaches littered with garbage and boats in various states of decay. The boats served as a great playground for a group of children and a troupe of ducks. We then hiked along a high bulkhead and looked at the rock formations that protruded from the water beyond the tide flats. The hike back took us through a small farming village where we could see the harvest close at hand. We were hailed with many a "Hello!" and we returned kind with many a "Nihao!"
Back in Zhuanghue proper, we took to the streets to explore and find food. Down the street from the hotel, we wandered into the local fresh food market. Table after table was piled high with fresh seafood, fresh vegetables, bulk seasoning, bulk grains and many, many unidentifiable piles of food.... fresh and dried. The sights and smells were exotic. There are obviously few westerners who wander the streets and markets of Zhuanghe because we were met with much curiosity. The people in the market were particularly amused as I took pictures of piles of food and really laughed when I took a movie of the silk worms that were dancing in a tray. Dinner, anyone? Silkworms are a very nutritious, healthy and low cal meal.
Out of the market, we made our way to a large plaza that was lively with people hanging out and visiting. We soon became a big plaza attraction, so we went on our merry way. Being the designated navigator, I was being very careful to make sure that I could get us back to the hotel. More wandering took us into a street that narrowed and became a very hutong feeling neighborhood. We took lots of doorway pictures and did a lot more "Nihao" greeting as we strolled along. Local Zhuanghens were mightily surprised as we made our way through the area. We meandered deep into this neighborhood before I found a main street to turn right onto and then another long way before I found another right turn and shortly there we were back near the market street which we knew was near the hotel. Whew! After this much walking and adventuring we had worked up an appetite. Our noses pressed against eateries, we soon found a dumpling shop. Two plates of dumplings and a tall TsingTao apiece later, we waddled our way back into the streets. More walking and 'sploring and we rewarded ourselves with .... you guessed it .... ice cream! More waddling, I mean walking and finally we headed back to the hotel for a good night's sleep. Oh, is that the local public toilet across the alleyway from our hotel room window? OOPS... good thing the place is only $4 a night and we're only here one night.
Our picnic took place in a waterfront park where we were immediately surrounded by locals and carefully observed. There was some attempt to communicate with us, but mostly we were just observed as a rare oddity. It made picnicking on apples, peanut butter and crackers very awkward and abbeviated.
The beach walk took us along beaches littered with garbage and boats in various states of decay. The boats served as a great playground for a group of children and a troupe of ducks. We then hiked along a high bulkhead and looked at the rock formations that protruded from the water beyond the tide flats. The hike back took us through a small farming village where we could see the harvest close at hand. We were hailed with many a "Hello!" and we returned kind with many a "Nihao!"
Back in Zhuanghue proper, we took to the streets to explore and find food. Down the street from the hotel, we wandered into the local fresh food market. Table after table was piled high with fresh seafood, fresh vegetables, bulk seasoning, bulk grains and many, many unidentifiable piles of food.... fresh and dried. The sights and smells were exotic. There are obviously few westerners who wander the streets and markets of Zhuanghe because we were met with much curiosity. The people in the market were particularly amused as I took pictures of piles of food and really laughed when I took a movie of the silk worms that were dancing in a tray. Dinner, anyone? Silkworms are a very nutritious, healthy and low cal meal.
Out of the market, we made our way to a large plaza that was lively with people hanging out and visiting. We soon became a big plaza attraction, so we went on our merry way. Being the designated navigator, I was being very careful to make sure that I could get us back to the hotel. More wandering took us into a street that narrowed and became a very hutong feeling neighborhood. We took lots of doorway pictures and did a lot more "Nihao" greeting as we strolled along. Local Zhuanghens were mightily surprised as we made our way through the area. We meandered deep into this neighborhood before I found a main street to turn right onto and then another long way before I found another right turn and shortly there we were back near the market street which we knew was near the hotel. Whew! After this much walking and adventuring we had worked up an appetite. Our noses pressed against eateries, we soon found a dumpling shop. Two plates of dumplings and a tall TsingTao apiece later, we waddled our way back into the streets. More walking and 'sploring and we rewarded ourselves with .... you guessed it .... ice cream! More waddling, I mean walking and finally we headed back to the hotel for a good night's sleep. Oh, is that the local public toilet across the alleyway from our hotel room window? OOPS... good thing the place is only $4 a night and we're only here one night.
On the Road to Zhuanghe
Pictures tell the story of harvest time and old China meets new China.
Thursday, October 05, 2006
Five Day Road Trip... Part One of Day 1... the Road to Zhuanghe
On October 1, 1949, Mao declared the People's Republic of China and now it is a National Holiday. The Chinese have an entire week off each autumn and they take to the road on vacation. The holiday often includes the Autumn Moon Festival, which this year fell on October 6th. Well, when in China do as the Chinese, so we have the week off from school.
Since buses, trains and planes are packed with Chinese tourists, Leslie, Becky and I decided to stay close to home and explore the area of Liaoning Province which is the coastline between Dalian and Dandong. Dandong is about 250 kilometers from Dalian. We were fortunate enough to hire a car and driver for the five day adventure. We set out Saturday, September 30 in a black Nissan sedan with Mr. B at the wheel. Actually one hand was on the wheel and the other hand was on the horn as driving in China requires a GREAT DEAL of horn honking.
There is an expressway that would have taken us speeding up country at 120 k.m. an hour, but we chose the local road route. What a good decision. It is harvest time and we were driving through beautiful and obviously fertile farm land. The corn was being harvested. Stalks are macheted down one plant at a time and the corn is taken off the stalk. The stalks are bundled and then leaned in picturesque teepees in the fields. The corn transported back to farmhouses in all manner of cart that is pulled by all manner of critter from horse to donkey to oxen to loud sputtering engine . Back at the farmhouse the corn is shucked and the family compounds are littered with shucked and unshucked corn. The shucking is a family project. The house tops are then covered with bins and stacks of shucked corn. It dries on the roof tops and then the kernels are stripped from the cob and sold or stored for meal and animal fodder. In addition to acres of corn fields, there are fields of rice that are shades of green and gold. There are groves of fruit trees and on some huge apples are ready to be picked. Autumn harvest has arrived in China and it is plentiful and stunning.
Our first day destination was Zhuanghe which is 112 kilometers from Dalian. What with meandering through the countryside it took us four hours to get to to Zhuanghe. The countryside is stunning and the mixture of old China and new modern China is never so pronounced as in the countryside.
